Next up on #FrontRoeTravelGuides, where Mackenzie and I went on our honeymoon: Capri & Positano in gorgeous southern Italy! Before we visited, I had always dreamt about going there, even though I’d spent a decent amount of time at other cities throughout the country. I even had a photo of Positano above my desk in my study, so I could look up at it and dream between writing for my blog and my book. When Mackenzie and I were deciding where to go after our wedding, it seemed like the obvious choice.
Naples is the nearest major airport and train station, so if you’re traveling from other areas of Italy or internationally, chances are you’ll start your journey to the Amalfi coast from here. The drive from Naples to Positano itself is about an hour, and not to be missed. Stunning cliffs and seaside views make for an absolutely breathtaking journey, and for those of you that are brave enough – there are plenty of rental car companies to choose from should you decide to take this drive on your own. Just keep in mind that most of the cars are stick shift, so make sure you know how to drive one! If you’re not feeling quite so adventurous but don’t want to miss the beautiful views, hire a private driver to pick you up – there are many stellar options on TripAdvisor if you read reviews and do some research on pricing. Hotels also often provide airport transfer to and from the Amalfi coast, so be sure to check this when you’re booking accommodations.
Once we arrived in Positano, we checked into the dreamy Le Sirenuse. Perched atop the hills of Positano that are stacked with colorful buildings, Le Sirenuse is a boutique luxury hotel that stole our hearts. Established in 1951 by a Neapolitan family that converted their Summer house into a hotel, it’s cozy, charming, and has the most awe-inspiring views of the Amalfi Coast. Not to mention, every corner of the hotel seems to be ready for its Instagram close up. Their restaurant La Sponda is also quite famous, lit with hundreds of candles and with ivy crawling up the bannisters and ceilings. They do a romantic candlelight dinner where the band will come to your table and serenade you over your spritz and pasta. They also have the chicest rooftop bar that is worth a drop by, even if you’re not staying at the hotel. Franco’s Bar was our favorite place for catching a sunset cocktail each night. You can see the whole of Positano from here – truly magical.
Now, you can’t visit Positano without having a beach day. Da Adolfo is a restaurant and beach club that is tiny and charming compared to the other larger beach areas. You can even arrive here by boat, getting stunning views of Positano from the water. Bagni d’Arienzo is also a popular beach club, with adorable orange umbrellas that are just waiting for you to pose with. And my favorite? The gorgeous beach where you can get a photo with the town of Positano sprawled out behind you is called Fornillo – it’s something out of a Gray Malin photo for sure. Everywhere you look is a picture perfect moment! Other notable restaurants are Chez Black and Da Vincenzo – but don’t miss out on your daily gelato fix! You’ll find ice cream stands scattered about the town, and each one we tried was fantastic.
For the final nights of our stay, we checked into the Monastero Santa Rosa, just north of Positano. The rooms and ocean views were incredible, as was their Michelin star restaurant and bar. The roof deck was so dreamy for reading and relaxing. We didn’t want to leave!
Whether you decide on a day trip or an overnight stay, a visit to Capri is an absolute must. It’s a tiny island just off the Amalfi coast that feels like something out of a movie. You can take a ferry straight from Positano, but if you’re doing a day trip I suggest getting on the first boat. The island can get quite busy so it’s best to beat the crowds if you can. Once you arrive at the marina, I highly recommend hiring your own private skipper to take you on a boat ride around the island. There are tons of boats there to choose from, and you can usually negotiate pricing to get a deal. Bring your own picnic and bottle of wine to sip on while you jet around the island, hopping off for a swim at the different grottos! It makes for a special day, trust me.
If relaxing seaside is more your style, then you have to visit La Fontelina beach club. The rocky coast is peppered with chic blue and white striped chairs and umbrellas, and it’s one of the most relaxing places to catch a tan while drinking an Aperol spritz. Make sure to make a rezzie ahead of time – it books up fast!
To get around the island, take the funicular from the marina to the main area of Capri. Don’t be put off by the long lines – the tram itself moves quite quickly and provides stunning views of the island. Stop for dinner at Paolino Capri, and dine in the middle of a lemon grove for a memorable experience and great food. For amazing pizza and people watching, try Aurora Capri. One of our friends even saw Mariah Carey here!
Now, let’s talk shopping. Capri truly does boutiques right, and you can find so many gorgeous goods here to pack your suitcase to the brim with. Stroll along the busy streets and you’re met with no shortage of options from jewelry to clothes (particularly, linen items – they are absolutely gorgeous on Capri), ceramics to art, trinkets and more. Explore long enough and you will even find bespoke sandal shops, that will create a pair of beautiful leather sandals for you to order!
We absolutely loved the Amalfi coast and can’t wait to go back. Make sure to comment below with any of your own recommendations – grazie!